Cherries and problems – diseases, self-fertility, fruiting and chopping


Contents ✓

  • ✓ CHERRY RESISTANCE TO DISEASES
  • ✓ SINGLE CHERRY
  • ✓ NO CHERRY FRUIT
  • ✓ INCORRECT FORMATION OF CHERRY
  • ✓ CHERRY GRINDING FRUIT
  • ✓ WHY CHERRY DOESN’T bear FRUIT – VIDEO

CHERRY PROBLEMS

cultivation of cherries

Although it is recommended to plant cherries permanently in spring, seedlings can already be purchased. Before that, carefully study the varieties that may function well on your site.

Just avoid unverified sources that are complete.


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Now someone’s writing there and about anything.

Go to the websites of the research institute, to the forums of gardeners, and find information there.

Pay attention not only to where the variety is zoned, but also to the ripening period, winter hardiness, tree height (this should be taken into account when planting seedlings with a view to the future). Self-fertility is also an important issue. Based on this, we will conclude whether it is necessary to purchase a second tree for pollination or if there is no special need. But let’s say right away that the more trees of different varieties are planted, the higher the yield, even in cases where the varieties are self-fertile.

The ideal place for cherries is a light slope, sheltered from the wind, with well-drained soil. Never plant cherries in marshy, peat bog or heavy clay soils. Here you will have to fill the mounds and plant trees on them.

Medium loamy, nutrient-rich, humus-rich and, of course, non-acid soils are suitable for cherries.

Now let’s talk about the problems you may encounter when growing cherries.

cultivation of cherries

CHERRY RESISTANCE TO DISEASES

This is a very important feature of the variety. Cocomycosis and moniliosis have destroyed many cherry orchards. Therefore, try to find a variety that is at least partially resistant to these diseases. You can also see if cherry grows near neighbors. It is also an indicator of how difficult or easy it will be for you with this culture.

Dessertnaya Morozovoy variety has an average resistance to coccosis. Although the variety is zoned for the Central Black Earth Region, it is also successfully grown in the middle lane. Fruits with a dessert flavor, sweet with a slight sourness. You need a pollinator for harvesting. For example, Vladimirskaya, Morozovka-

By the way, Morozovka is also resistant to coccosis, a fruit with a sweet dessert taste. It was bred in Miczurinsk, and in the middle lane, the kidneys may freeze slightly. The fruits ripen late, in July.

The real discovery is the Tamaris variety (IV Michurin All-Russian Horticultural Institute, Mikhurinsk). Virtually unaffected by coccicosis, sometimes suffers from Moniliosis. Large, sweet and sour fruits ripen in July-August. Very fertile and winter-hardy variety. Even if it freezes in a harsh winter, it will recover quickly.

The Radonezh variety (All-Russian Research Institute of Lupine, Bryansk) was entered in the State Register of Breeding Achievements in 2002 in the Central Region. The tree is frost-resistant, resistant to fungal diseases, and flower buds are frost-resistant. The fruits are tasty, tender and juicy, although not large.

cultivation of cherries

If you notice leaf drying out on a cherry as a result of Moniliosis damage, cut off the affected branch immediately, grabbing 15-20 cm of healthy wood. Can also be cut into a ring. Burn affected branches immediately to prevent spread of infection.

The defeat begins in the flowering period. The infection enters the plant through the stigma of the pistil. Stains appear on the petals, gradually all the flowers dry out. The disease spreads from flowers to young fruiting branches, and then to larger ones. They all dry out and appear to have been scorched by fire. Hence, this type of lesion is called a monilial burn.

In order to prevent moniliosis and coccicosis, prophylactic treatment is carried out at the white bud stage with preparations based on copper or other active substances (thiophanate-methyl, difenoconazole, cyprodinil). After 10 days, the treatment is repeated.


See also: Cherries: planting and care – the main questions and simple answers


SINGLE CHERRY

cultivation of cherries

There used to be at least two cherry trees on the plot. Often planted joint Vladimirskaya and Shubinka. Now is

this condition is not 100% obligatory if self-fertile varieties such as Molodezhnaya, Pamyat Yenikeev, Pamyat Ev-stratov are planted. These varieties give high yields even without pollinators and have many other advantages.

All of them are displayed in VSTISP (Moscow) and look great in the middle lane.

Molodezhnaya variety – medium-ripening (July 20-25), large, maroon fruit, high yield (10-12 kg / tree) and annual. Winter hardiness is high (at Vladimir’s level). But there is also a small drawback – it can be affected by coccosis and moniliosis.

Pamyati Yenikeeva variety – medium early ripening period. Large, sweet and sour, dessert fruits ripen together. Yield 8-10 kg / v. Medium resistance to coccicosis.

Rastorguevskaya variety – self-fertile and early fertile (starts fruiting in the 3rd year), early middle ripening period. Medium weight fruit, sweet and sour. Cocomycosis resistance is average.

The Rusinka variety, also self-fertile, can boast of regular fruiting. Medium-sized, maroon, late-ripening fruit. The tree is very hardy, as are the flower buds. Cocomycosis resistance is average.

Sania variety – early maturing (mid-July), self-fertile, frost-resistant. The fruits are medium (3-4 g), sweet and sour. Cocomycosis resistance is average.

Burning Monilial Cherry. Why 🍒 the cherry dries up.

WITHOUT CHERRY FRUITS

This problem can be divided into two. The cherry blossomed, there was no frost, and yet there are no ovaries. Or else the ovaries had come out, but they were still green.

The first case is simply a self-fertile variety and no pollinator. The solution to the problem is planting near the pollinator, planting in the crown or planting self-fertile varieties.

To date, gardeners are very fond of the Vladimir cherry variety and plant it. Or his parents planted it. But this strain is self-fertile. Therefore, if you want to grow Vladimirskaya, plant next to Assol, Volochaevka, Molodezhnaya for cross-pollination. All three strains are self-fertile, by the way.

The second problem is more complicated, you have to figure it out. The green ovaries can fall off naturally as the tree regulates the load on the crop itself. In that case, nothing needs to be done. But it is possible that the fruit will be damaged by pests or diseases, then measures and treatments will be needed. Or the tree does not have moisture, nutrition. Timely watering and feeding will solve the problem of falling ovaries.

INCORRECT FORMATION OF CHERRY

You need to start shaping the cherry as soon as the seedling is planted. Cherries very often branch in the lower part of the bush, and if you do not act on time, you will not be able to form a stem (and it should be 50-60 cm tall). Therefore, already at the age of 1-2 years, remove excess shoots by forming a stalk and marking the skeletal branches (3 branches at the lower tier, 2-3 branches at the middle tier and 1 branch at the upper tier). Above them is the main guide. Skeletal branches must be shortened if they are too long by 20 cm.

If in the future there are shoots inside the crown that rub against other shoots and simply thicken, they must be removed.

We recommend that the tree does not grow more than 2 m. After all, it is more convenient to collect from a low tree, and it is more convenient to collect, and if something happens, you can hide it from birds with a net and carry out processing. Therefore, annually trim the branches vertically upwards on the side branches.

Some experts recommend shaping the cherries in a bowl shape. In this case, the center conductor is removed and the skeletal branches are directed in different directions at an angle. For the central region, this is a good type of formation. The tree does not grow high, it is easy to care for and harvest. Due to the fact that the center of the crown is empty, the rays of air and sun pass freely through the crown, thus avoiding damage to the cherry by diseases and pests. We start modeling in 1-2 years – pinch the upper part. Then we leave the shoots growing sideways and remove the vertically growing ones. There is no need to bend the branches in a special way, under the weight of the harvest, they will take a more horizontal position on their own.

CHERRY FRUIT GROUND

It happens that cherries give small fruits. The reasons for this may be different. Perhaps self-normalization has not happened as the tree sheds excess ovaries that it cannot “feed.”

Another reason is drought. Watering fruits do not have enough moisture and start to turn red when they are still small. Remember to water the cherries. You can water it every day, it won’t be worse. Either in the morning and in the evening. About 200 liters of water should be poured under each tree so that it reaches the roots. At the same time, feed with mineral fertilizers or mullein (for 1 kg of fresh manure – 10 liters of water, pour under the root, and then additionally spill the soil). Don’t worry if the already reddened little fruits fall off, but the still green ones grow in size quickly and begin to ripen.

The fruit can shrink on a fairly old tree. On average, cherries bear fruit well for 15 years, although this period depends on the quality of care (the better, the longer). The life of the tree can be extended by rejuvenating pruning. Cut large old branches into younger and healthier ones. The top of the tree will have to be removed. After such pruning, the size of the fruit doubles.


See also: Dangerous diseases of cherries – photo, name and description from agronomist


WHY CHERRY DOES NOT BEAR FRUIT – VIDEO

WHY CHERRY does not bear fruit / 9 reasons / Igor Bilevich

© AUTHOR: V. SOKOLNIK, AGRONOM

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