- ✓ CHERRY DOES NOT LIKE RAW – LANDING IN THE RIGHT PLACE
- ✓ CHERRY – CARE
- ✓ GROWING CHERRY – GREAT VIDEO!
- ✓ CHERRY VARIETIES – NAME + DESCRIPTION
- ✓ SECRETS OF CULTIVATION OF CHERRY – VIDEO
CHERRY, CHERRY AND DUKI – GROWING IN THE REGION OF WLADIMIR
Not so long ago, sour cherries were unconditionally taken into account, if not southern, then certainly not northern. Now it is a common attribute of a dacha in the northwest: in and around St.Petersburg you will not surprise anyone with these cultures. However, even on Middle Lane, he is not warm every year, so we read carefully.
Today I want to talk about cherries, cherries and princes. We often hear that cherries bear no fruit if there is a forest around them. However, I do not agree with this argument: our village of Kanabiewo is also in the forest, but there is nothing to complain about the harvest. So what affects the well-being of cherry trees? Let’s think about it.
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1. First of all, the yield depends on the choice of the variety. For example, I prefer semi-self-pollinating strains.
2. As our area belongs to the zone of risky crops (in winter we have frosts up to -35 …- 390), the varieties must be very resistant to winter. In addition, they must have either frost resistance or late flowering so that in spring, due to sudden changes in day and night temperatures, fruit buds do not freeze during the return of cold weather.
3. Productivity always increases with cross-pollination, so at least two or three varieties should grow on site.
4. The acidity of the soil, which should be close to neutral, is of great importance for cherries. To do this, I definitely put half a bucket of dolomite flour into the well: it not only neutralizes the soil, but is also an excellent fertilizer. I also bring at least a liter of ash, which is rich in many trace elements.
See also: Varieties of dyuk – description and photos, breeder reviews
CHERRY DOES NOT LIKE RAW – LANDING IN THE RIGHT PLACE
Cherries give good results only on light, fertile soils and with sufficient moisture. On our site, the soil in different places has a different structure, which should be constantly taken into account. So, on heavy clay soil, I need to add a bucket of sand to the planting hole for loosening, and on a sandy one, on the contrary, a bucket of clay, so that after watering and rains, the moisture necessary for good root development, the system that feeds the tree remains longer.
As for low and moist soils, with a close presence of groundwater, they cannot wait for a good harvest of cherries on them.
Here it is already necessary to make drainage and plant the seedlings on the mounds so that the spring water, and then the excess moisture during summer watering, drains from the trunks to the limits. The cherry stand should be well lit by the sun and protected from the cold northeast winds.
In the last decade, it has become evident that pound water has decreased significantly in our area. After five years of experimenting, I strongly advise you to make deeper landing pits – from 70 cm to 1 m.
Abundant watering of mature trees after flowering, after harvest and pre-winter row irrigation also have a positive effect. To avoid the uncovering of the crown in August-September, I prune the twigs of a one-year-old growth 25-40 cm long, which also positively influences the increase in yield.
I plant cherries at a distance of 2 m to 5 m from each other, depending on the height of the selected variety. In a planting well with a diameter of 4 cm and a depth of 50 cm, I always put only humus and never fresh manure! Also, be sure to put in two glasses of superphosphate and a glass of potassium sulfate.
I do not pamper cherries with nitrogen fertilizers, only once after flowering I make foliar top dressing for the crown of the leaf with an aqueous solution of herbal dung (2:10). Under mature trees in the crown radius, I sprinkle the bucket with dolomite flour every three years, then loosen or mulch the soil and water it.
CHERRY – CARE
In early spring, when the air warms up to 5 °, son Vitaly sprinkles the garden with a solution of Bordeaux mixture (3%) to prevent diseases, iron vitriol from mosses and lichens, and then – before and after flowering – with purchased preparations for volatile pests. All procedures should be carried out only late in the evening, so as not to kill beneficial insects, and strictly according to the instructions.
If the cherry blossom season coincides with the return of cold weather, I sprinkle the trees with water late in the evening, and the resulting ice protects the flowers from freezing.
In summer, I remove weeds and track irrigation. At the turn of September and October, I carry out pre-winter watering of cherries (without fertilizers). The prince and cherries are cared for in the same way as for cherries, but they are distinguished by the strength of growth and greater resistance to moniliosis and clotterosporia. I graft cherries and princes on my own seedlings from highly winter-hardy and basic varieties – Shubinka and Vladimirskaya, and cherries – on seedlings of high winter hardiness varieties (Iput, Rev-na, Leningradskaya black) and Vladimirskaya cherries, so that in in the future, the thickness of the rootstock and the scion were the same – this will positively affect the longevity and fruiting of the tree.
Cherry fruits improve appetite, they are used in dietary nutrition as a general tonic for anemia. We are happy to use large sweet berries as dessert and prepare for the winter.
And now I will tell you briefly about cherries, cherries and princes that our family liked.
Reference by topic: Cherries: planting and care – the main questions and simple answers
GROWING CHERRY – GREAT VIDEO!
CHERRY VARIETIES – NAME + DESCRIPTION
Molodezhnaya (cherry 2003) is a winter-hardy, fruitful, disease-resistant variety. The berries are large, burgundy, juicy, with an excellent dessert taste.
Robin (cherry 2001) – large, dark red fruit with a good sweet and sour taste. Highly winter-hardy, disease-resistant and fruitful variety.
Rusinka (cherry 2003) is a partially self-fertile, high-yielding, winter-hardy variety. Berries weighing approx. 3 g, dark red, good sweet and sour taste.
Turgenevka (cherry 2012) – the berries are large, about 5 g, burgundy in color, good sweet and sour taste. Fast-growing, productive, highly winter-hardy variety, disease-resistant, partially self-fertile.
Novella (cherry 2012) is a highly winter-hardy, disease-resistant, high-yielding, partially self-fertile variety. The berries are large, burgundy, juicy, with an excellent dessert taste.
Memory Vavilov (cherry 2014) – large fruit, approx. 4 g, burgundy color, juicy, perfect sweet and sour taste. Fast-growing variety, highly winter-hardy, disease-resistant, high-yielding variety.
Iput (cherry 2001) is a highly winter-hardy, partially self-fertile, disease-resistant and fertile variety. The fruit is large, approx. 7 g, from burgundy to black, juicy, with a good dessert taste.
Revna (cherry 2014) – large berries, burgundy color, perfect dessert taste. Strongly frost-resistant, partially self-fertile, fertile, disease-resistant variety.
Fatezh (cherry 2001) is a highly winter-hardy variety, resistant to diseases. The fruit is large, approx. 6 g, amber-yellow with a blush, perfect sweet and sour taste.
Bryanochka (cherry 2016) – medium-sized berries, dark red color, juicy, pleasant taste. High-yielding, frost-resistant variety, unstable to diseases.
Leningrad black (cherry 2003) – quite winter-hardy, although internodes, places where the skeletal branches leave the trunk periodically suffer from frost. I cover the resulting cracks (with rubber) with clay, and on top with garden tar, so that the putty does not wash off with rain, it helps a lot. The variety is resistant to Monilia laxa. The fruit is large, approx. 7 g, almost black, juicy, with an excellent dessert taste.
Orlovskaya Amber (cherry 2012) – low-growing, highly winter-hardy, resistant to diseases. Medium-sized amber-yellow berries with a pleasant dessert flavor.
Festivalnaya (Duke 2005) is a fast-growing, semi-self-pollinating variety with high winter and disease resistance. Ruby-colored berries, juicy, medium-sized, with an excellent sweet taste with a subtle sourness, very early ripening. Fruiting is annual.
Radonezh (duke 2004) – medium-sized fruit, dark red in color, aromatic, good sweet and sour taste. The variety is highly winter-hardy, partially self-fertile, resistant to diseases.
Spartanka (Duke 2014) is a high-yielding variety, resistant to diseases, highly winter-hardy, large berries, dark cherry color, juicy, aromatic, with a good sweet and sour taste.
Ivanovna (Duke 2016) – the fruits are large, about 7 g, dark red, fragrant, juicy, with a good dessert taste. Fast-growing variety, highly winter-hardy, disease-resistant, high-yielding variety.
In recent years, the birds have flocked from the forest and have coped with the harvest in no time. So far, the most reliable protection against them is the lutrasil cover of trees on which the harvest is just beginning to mature (until the color of the berries changes). If you taste ripe blueberries, no lutrasil will help!
I wish you all good health!
I do not send seedlings.
Reference by topic: New varieties of cherries – photo, name and description, expert reviews
SECRETS OF CULTIVATION OF CHERRY – VIDEO
© Author: Vera Okhonikova
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